When John Cox first visited the stunning, 714-acre Fess Parker Ranch in Los Olivos last year, it was just as a favor to a friend, Paul Hoyle, president of the Fess Parker hotel group. Cox found himself on a tour past the ranch’s long-established vineyards and new wagyu cattle, as owner Eli Parker sought Cox’s advice for selling the prized beef to restaurants.
But Cox immediately saw potential for something even better. He imagined creating a restaurant for the Parker family where they could serve the wagyu and other products from their ranch themselves.
“It would be such a waste for that wagyu to go out of the family— no one is going to have the same connection to those animals,” Cox says. “You talk about the terroir—as soon as